Shanghai is shocking…shockingly huge, dynamic, spectacular, westernized, modern and more. Though I read about the transformation of this city before arriving, I simply didn’t understand what it is like to be in the midst of this metropolis which is unrecognizable to people who had been here as recently as five years ago. Wealth and economic success are obvious from the top-end hotels to the major retail luxury brands. Iconic skyscrapers create a neon light show at night along the river that splits this city. As a short stay tourist, it is harder to find the old and decidedly poorer China but it exists and, with a little effort, it is possible to see it up close. As in most major cities of the world, multiple strata and cultures coexist by carving up geography and roles…sometimes by choice and sometimes not.
We had a unique opportunity to view Shanghai through a walking tour of neighborhoods that had been populated by Jewish immigrants from Iraq, Russia and later, Western Europe. As an open port, Shanghai offered refuge when most countries would not. Our tour guide, a former Israeli journalist, noted that the immigration tides subsequently changed and there are only about 3,000 Jewish people living in this city of approximately 20 million.
Taxi rides are relatively inexpensive but make even an experienced New Yorker recoil at the aggressive horn blowing, lane changing, and disregard for pedestrians, traffic lights, sidewalks and other vehicles. Motorcycles and motorized bikes go in all directions on and off the streets and near misses happen regularly to anyone walking in this city. Maybe that’s what is necessary for a city of 20 million people to get where they are going but it is startling none the less.
Our business dinner with local partners was elaborate with a 180-degree view of the spectacular skyline and neon-lit boats on the river. Doing business here, it feels as if you are in any major city where international business is conducted; it feels no more foreign than any city which is not your own…unless you find yourself in need of directions or help and you are away from the major shopping and hotel areas. The most foreign part of being in China for me is not the political, cultural and historical differences but rather the inability to communicate clearly. I found myself wishing I knew more than the few words of Mandarin I have picked up. Despite the language barrier, I found those I interacted with warm and helpful; reciprocal smiles go a long way.
Shanghai is a city I look forward to visiting again.
And on to Beijing
Beijing is all I expected. Huge endless boulevards bordered by condos and office buildings as far as the eye can see. Unfortunately, the hazy polluted air often meant my eyes could barely see anything at all. The scale of everything reinforces the magnitude of China’s growing power and importance in the world. One can’t help but be impressed with the majesty of a metropolis which has the Forbidden City at its core. We visited the Great Wall with the throngs, we bargained with local merchants at Silk Street, and we sampled the cuisine with local colleagues guiding our choices.
The most unique perspective we were afforded was a view to the future of the movie business in China. There are about 35 cities with populations of one million or more that have zero movie theaters. The government has mandated the construction of over 30,000 additional screens over the next eight years. We met with the largest theater developer in China, a major film producer and a top Hollywood talent agency’s point person in China. It certainly appears that the trajectory of the movie business in China will offer some unique opportunities.
At the same time, we were reminded of the role of the Chinese government in media. While we were there, the head of the agency that regulates radio, television and film made a pronouncement that there is too much entertainment programming on television in the evenings and mandated a cutback in favor of more informational and educational content. That wasn’t good news to my board colleague who is producing Chinese versions of American shows.
The juxtaposition of the bullish movie meetings with the new regulatory constraints on television programming provides an interesting microcosm of doing business in China. There is great opportunity in this huge and expanding market but cultural and political values will continue to be an important dimension of economic activity in China for the foreseeable future.